2011/05/15

Aoi Matsuri in Kyoto on 15th May (2) the ladies' parade

"Aoi Matsuri" is the festival of aristocrats. The participants attire the aristocratic styles of kimono. Japanese average people never wear them even when their wedding ceremony. We can usually see them only in Shinto shrines. However, the kimono of priests are sacred costumes which are not rich in variety. "Aoi Matsuri" is a very good chance to enjoy gazing at them, especially within the ladies' parade.

The messenger's parade is actually the main, but people usually regard the maiden's one as more importance because it is much more gorgeous and it becomes the focus of public attention who is selected to be the deputy of maiden every year.

In my opinion, there are another reason in addition to it. I think that people in Kyoto are very proud of "斎王 (サイオウ:Saio-)", or the Imperial maiden in the service of a Shinto shrine. There were only two "Saio-" allowed in only two shrines. One was in Ise Jingu Shrine and the other was in the pair of Kamigamo and Shimogamo Jinja Shrines (Kamigamo and Shimogamo Jinja Shrines have been regarded as one traditionally). Although the system of keeping "Saio-" was abolished a long time ago, once, Kamigamo and Shimogamo had been actually allowed to keep her. That may prove until now that these shrines hold the prime rank of all Shinto shrines not only in Kyoto but also in all over Japan except for Ise Jingu Shrine which is the center of all of Shinto deities.

The first participants of ladies' parade are
the court ladies of higher class

The same lady
She is followed by a boy attendant
with a parasol decorated with artificial flowers

Another lady

The heroine of this festival,
the deputy of an Imperial maiden
in the service of Kamigamo and Shimogamo Jinja Shrines
Only she rides on a traditional float

Her profile
She wears the white string accessory

Her float is followed by young girls

The lady cavalcade comes in
It is lead by ladies who wear aristocratic kimono suites
with designed of blue wave

This kind of layered sleeves are unique to aristocratic kimono
It means that she wears several kimono
so that we can admire her delicate feelings of colors

The ladies' parade is gorgeous

Mounted aristocratic ladies are rarely seen
except for in Aoi Matsuri

A walking lady
Her red pants are too, unique to the peeress style

The ladies' parade is followed by males

This drum was gifted by Tokugawa in Edo Period
The pattern like heart is a leaf of mallow
The design with three leaves of mallow is the crest of Tokugawa Family
and that of with two leaves of mallow is the crest of Kamigamo and Shimogamo Jinja Shrines
The lord of Tokugawa might feel some relations with this festival by his crest
Mallow is "Aoi" in Japanese and this festival was named of this plant

The traditional court gong is carried by boys

What is this?

The traditional car decorated with artificial pink wisteria
tells us the end of all parade

If you use public traffics to go anywhere of this parade, please pay attention to some station employees who stands with some pieces of paper. They distribute free maps with the timetable of parade to passengers. We got one at Sanjo Station of Keihan Line this time.

Shimogamo Jinja Shrine is located within five minutes walks from Demachi Yanagi Station of Keihan Line, but we could not do it this day. Every street, avenue or bridge was so crowded with a lot of people that it took us twenty minutes to get to. I would not like you to follow the fascinating steppingstones across the Kamo River for a shorter way. If you do so, you cannot exit the river before the parade passes. I reccomand you to select the Aoi Bridge.

Kamigamo Jinja Shrine is not easy to get to because we can go there only by bus. I think busses on festival days are some kinds of nightmare. However, if you have the patience to ride one or to reach there by taxi from Kitayama or Kitaoji Stations of Subway Karasuma Line (it takes us less than ten minutes and less than 1,000 yens), you can find that people are a little less crowded.

This year we were on the northern part of "Kamokaido" near Kamigamo Jinja Shrine. This road runs along the western bank of the Kamo River. It takes us ten minutes from Kitayama or Kitaoji Stations on foot. I could enjoy so much here because it was cool by thick roadside trees and the participants of parade looked relaxed. If you are enough lucky, you can talk to participants and take photos of you with them while the parade is waiting for traffic lights.

There are reserved seats at Kyoto Imperial Palace and Shimogamo Jinja Shrine for the other rituals, too. However, we enjoyed very much even just watching parades. If you can read the Japanese language very well, I recommend you to purchase a leaflet. It can help you understand this festival more.


Date: 15th May

Time:
10:30 a.m.: Kyoto Imperial Palace 
10:50 a.m.: the gate of the Palace at Marutamachi Dori St.
11:00 a.m.: the corner of Kawaramachi Dori Ave. and Marutamachi Dori St. 
11:30 a.m.: the corner of Kawaramachi Dori Ave. and Imadegawa Dori St. 
11:40 a.m.: the gate of Shimogamo Jinja Shrine at Mikage Ave. 
(some rituals are held there)
2:20 p.m. : it left the western gate of Shimogamo Jinja Shrine
2:40 p.m. : the corner of Shimogamo Hondori Ave. and Kitaoji Dori St.
2:55 p.m. : the corner of Kamokaido and Kitaoji Dori St.
(the parade goes along Kamokaido, or the western side of the Kamo River from here)
3:30 p.m. : the gate of Kamigamo Jinja Shrine

Fee:
every roadside: free (I was here)
reserved seat at the Palace or Shimogamo: 2,000 yen (included a leaflet)(it is easily sold out)
leaflet: 800 yen (maybe)
map with timetable: free (station employees distribute it)

Access:
Kyoto Imperial Palace:
* soon from Marutamachi Station of Subway Karasuma Line

Kamigamo Jinja Shrine:
* Kamigamo Jinja Mae Stop of Municipal Bus bound for Kamigamo Jinja, Line 4
* Kamigamo Misonobashi Stop of Municipal Bus bound for Nishigamo Shako, Line 9 or 37

Shimogamo Jinja Shrine:
* 5 minutes walk from Demachi Yanagi Station of Keihan Line
* Shimogamo Jinja Mae Stop or Tadasu no Mori Stop of Municipal Bus bound for Kamigamo Jinja, Line 4

More detailed:
Kyoto Tourism Association (Japanese)
Kamigamo Jinja Shrine
Shimogamo Jinja Shrine


Thank you for reading my poor English !

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